Blog 4: Uncomfortable

***This blog is more serious and somber then previous posts / future posts will be***

My first full week in Vietnam has been an exercise in turbulent adjustment to a new place, a new culture, and a new mode of being.  The job search is tedious and not particularly fruitful at the moment, as the Lunar New Year (known in Vietnam as Tet) quickly approaches, and not many places are hiring teachers until after the holiday passes.

The past week was spent getting to know the winding packed streets of Tay Ho, with a couple ventures out into the even more chaotic parts of the city.  It was also spent trying new foods, such as snails, tofu, various fish, and several dishes which I’m not quite sure of the content, along with finding refuge in several Western restaurants I would opt for when the thought of more noodles made me shiver.

Life is different in Hanoi (duh).  In America, people like to say life moves super fast in places like New York, or moves slower down in the South, or marches backwards in our nations capital.  In Hanoi, life moves at whichever pace you please (except for the streets, life moves a million miles per hour when in traffic).  If you want to take a relaxing stroll and spend a full day casually exploring Tay Ho, the Old Quarter, or any of the dozens of beautiful temples which speckle the city, that is an option.  Or you can elect to go into the heart of the Old City, or frequent the massive markets where dozens of vendors zealously display the goods they have for sale.  You can sit quietly at night along the bank of Tay Ho and watch the lights of the city dance across the water, or you can trek to the source of the lights and find a wild night filled with the most aggressive house music you will ever hear.

I am in the midst of discovering and adjusting to a new place, but also a new way of being.  It’s no secret that I loved Tulane and everyone there, along with my friends from high school, and of course my family (and above all else my dogs), and I had grown accustomed to always having someone to hang out with.  Friends to go out and do anything with, or to sit around and do nothing with.  Unsurprisingly I have not yet found such a constant community in Vietnam, but moreover I am realizing that I shouldn’t strive for that same dynamic.  I need to become more independent, comfortable with going to a new place on my own and confident that I will be able to have a good time, whether I meet new people and make new friends at any given place.  This adjustment is more difficult to make than the lack of chicken nuggets, although just barely. 

This is not to say I have not been having my share of fun in Vietnam.  I have made friends, met some great people, and done some very interesting things.  I have indulged in the ubiquitous presence of fifty cent beers.  I went and saw live music on Saturday night, and plan to do so several times this upcoming week too.  I witnessed a people rejoice in the victory of Vietnam’s U-23 soccer team over Iraq.  I have been making memories, learning lessons, and enjoying myself fully.

This upcoming week looks to be a good one.  My friend Quentin arrives in Hanoi this evening and will be here through Tuesday, and I am extremely excited to see a familiar face.  I also look forward to waking up at 3 this (morning? evening?) to watch the Patriots compete in the AFC Championship game.  I know Tom Brady’s hand has been injured this week, but worry not, for I visited a Buddhist temple yesterday and prayed for his wellbeing.  The many-armed God Avalokiteśvara assured me that Tom Brady would be alright, and that God knows hands. 

I soldier forward in Hanoi with a new understanding of the challenges I face, but excited for said challenge nonetheless.

Below you will find this week’s Vlog.  I assure you all that I am having more fun than the reflection at the end would suggest.  The narration contains my thoughts and realizations about the full difficulty of the task I have undertaken on this voyage.

 

Blog 3: The First Days

My first several days in Vietnam have been a whirlwind of subverted expectations, unintended encounters, and taking refuge in the countries impressively extensive Netflix catalogue.

Just to get an idea of how fast things moved for me this week, I landed at Noi Bai International Airport at 7:30AM Wednesday, and had secured a place to live in Northern Tay Ho 7:30 that evening.  I had my Vietnamese cellphone set up within two hours of my arrival.  I had also become a millionaire (the exchange rate is 20,000VND to $1 US, so the $200 I exchanged shot my net worth through the roof). 

Wednesday night I took my first trip into the Old Quarter, a bustling maze of interwoven rivers of pedestrians, cars, busses, and innumerable motorbikes.  I was overwhelmed by the casual chaos that defined my understanding of the original Hanoi.  After a couple fifty cent beers and a meal of the finest Pho, I retreated to my hotel room before I passed out on the tiny plastic stools which are the seat of choice for residents and tourists alike.

Thursday morning I rose at 4:30AM, an hour before the sun, due to the 12 hour jet lag and having fallen asleep at 9 the prior evening.  I escaped the hotel room and walked down towards the lake, Tay Ho, to watch the sunrise, too groggy to realize that “Tay Ho” stands for Westlake, and though a great place to watch the sunset, it is not much of a place to be at dawn. 

I left my hotel around 11 that morning and departed up to the place I had chosen to live, 483 Au Co Street, Tay Ho District, Vietnam (incase you want to send fan mail or frozen chicken nuggets, preferably the latter).  Still feeling and looking a zombie from the jet lag, the rest of Thursday was spent moving in to my new room, getting the necessities (a hook so I could hang up my Tom Brady jersey on the wall, Pringles) and the luxuries (shampoo, a toothbrush, etc.), and catching up on sleep.

Friday was a day of exploration by foot.  I walked the circumference of Westlake, a 12 kilometer journey which I probably turned into between 15 and 18 via my detours down every inviting side street.  I was also able to explore the “Công viên nước Hồ Tây”, a waterpark mere minutes from my apartment.  I moseyed in unsure, assuming that a security guard, a locked door, something, anything would prevent me from entering the closed-for-the-season waterpark, but alas, I was able strut right in through the turnstiles.  The maintenance workers in the park didn’t seem to care that I was there.  It was pretty cool to be in an empty waterpark, although disappointing that I couldn’t figure out how to turn on the roller coaster.  Guess that’ll just have to wait til spring.

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View From My Apartment Roof, The Ferris Wheel is the Water Park.  Beyond it lies Tay Ho.

Friday night I was finally un-jetlagged enough to get my first taste of Hanoi nightlife.  I went out with my housemates, two British couples who have been in-country for about a year and a half each.  We went bar hopping around the Tay Ho area, and I discovered that much like New Orleans, Hanoi also has many a “Free Beer Hour”, though when they say it, they mean it (no two chip limit).  It was a blast meeting a ton of new people and finding myself at a cafe at the end of the evening with a plate of french fries before me, a sight so beautiful I tear up a little at the thought of it now.

Saturday, at the encouragement of my roommates, I purchased a motorbike (don’t tell my mom).  The bulk of the day was spent learning the rules of the road, the flow of traffic, and familiarizing myself with the different routes around Tay Ho.  I only almost crashed once!  I needn’t say more about the motorbike, as I believe it’d be far more entertaining for you to check out the video at the bottom of this post.

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Dragon Statue along the West Bank of Tay Ho

Saturday night was spent being overwhelmed, shocked, and amused by many of the particular quirks of Vietnamese nightlife, and how different it is from back home.  The music, the price of drinks, and several other factors make the nightlife here vastly different than in the States.

I awoke early this morning to watch the Patriots stomp on the Titans.  In Tom Brady’s name, we pray.  The rest of the day has been spent conquering another couple hours on the road, looking for a warmer jacket, though I have yet to find one that fits, and searching for a teaching job, which I hope to have secured by this time next week.

To be perfectly honest, there are moments when I am utterly overwhelmed by the absolute difference of the place I am in, the lack of familiar faces around, and the distance I have traveled to be here.  However, after those fleeting moments of insecurity and uncertainty, I am reassured that this grand adventure will awaken in me a new understanding of the world and of myself.  I have already come to appreciate the chaotic poetry of Hanoi, from it’s constant state of simultaneously falling apart and being fixed, to the democratic anarchy distilled in the ho-hum life threatening traffic on the streets.  I also feel very fortunate to have stumbled into a house with great roommates who were willing to take me out my first weekend and show me some cool spots.  I have always felt blessed with serendipitous friendships throughout my life, and it seems as though that luck may have followed me to the orient.  Time will tell, but it feels like I’m off to a pretty good start.

Check back next week for an update from (hopefully) Professor Thatch, (hopefully) the first actual vlog post, and much more!

Best wishes to all back home,

Thatcher

P.S. – Sorry for the poor video quality, there was a problem importing the videos from my GoPro onto my computer, so I couldn’t render the video fully.  Hope to have it figured out by next week.

Blog #2: The Departure

“I find myself so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head” – Red, The Shawshank Redemption

DISCLAIMER: This is the last blog before I have actual things to blog about.  First official blog coming up next week.

Well, the day is here.  I sit in Terminal 8, Gate 2 at JFK with my final American Meal, a ten piece McNuggets, a double cheeseburger (ketsup only) and large fries, with the full magnitude of the adventure ahead of me just hitting me now (along with the realization of how dramatically I will have to expand my palette on the journey).

233 days have passed since I graduated from Tulane University last May, and the time between now and then has been an adventure all it’s own.  I learned to move on from a place and people who were truly special to me, to holding down a semi-real job for several months (personal record!), to traveling back to New Orleans to indulge in the debauchery one last time. 

The last month has been one of reflection, and of preparation.  I traveled with my family, a wonderful experience which afforded me many dives into the ocean and many great memories with loved ones.  My last week at home has offered a lucky opportunity to see a bevy of friends on New Years and in the first week of the 2018, each day reminding me of a face and personality I will so dearly miss while on my journey.  Yet, by everyone I will miss, I was beckoned to go forward fearlessly towards my journey, instilled with confidence by each of them that I will be successful in my travels.  For this, I am forever grateful, and I am filled with the knowledge that, whenever I return, I have friends and loved ones who will be eager to welcome me back to the United States with open arms.

What awaits in the time between now and my return is the only thing that’s left: the journey of a lifetime.  It has officially begun.

Check back soon for the first update from my trip.

Blog #1: The Undertaking

Hello Friends.  My name is Thatcher Gleason, and on January 8, 2017 I will be taking the biggest, boldest, and most frightening step in my life upon which I have yet embarked: moving to a foreign country, on the opposite side of the Earth as which I have spent my first 23 years of life.

The Destination: Hanoi, Vietnam

The Goal: Deepen my understanding of myself and the world around me through rich new experiences and the undertaking of as many adventures as possible.  To challenge myself and my established views.

The Method: As described above, taking a leap of faith and moving across the planet on my own, living in a land I’ve never known amongst a culture I’ve never experienced.

If you wish to join me on this journey, I hope to be posting weekly Blog Posts here on this website, and hope to also include video components (Vlogs) whenever possible.

Stay tuned for updates from the trip of a lifetime,

Thatcher